Projector Retrofit: 1991-2001 Acura NSX with Morimoto Mini H1

September 24, 2017

One of the most frustrating parts of owning classic cars is outdated technology. Headlights is one of the most important features any car can have especially for night time cruises. Sadly, it is not as simple as replacing bulbs just to keep up with modern technology or totally improve the light output of your vehicle.

 

Here in Organized Garage Status, not only did we develop a projector retrofit conversion kit with the best aftermarket projector lighting manufacturer, we also developed Clear Lenses to improve your vehicles' lighting to its maximum potential. After numerous trials and error, and months of research and development, we were able to put together the best options to improve the overall lighting performance of your good old JDM classic, without needing major surgery on your headlights.

 

 

Projector retrofit kit parts list:

• Horus Lighting Clear Lenses

• Morimoto Mini H1

• Morimoto Mini Gatling Gun Projector Shrouds

• Morimoto Mini H1 Motoho1ders

• Horus Lighting Projector Retrofit Brackets

 

 

Parts needed:

• 2" 8-32 or M4x0.7 Machine Screws

• Washers

• Lock Nuts

• 1.25" Aluminum Spacers

 

 

The standard bulb holders that come with the Morimoto Mini H1 projectors are clip types. These are not very good design to hold the bulbs in place and are very hard to deal with. Due to Morimoto's continuous development, they have designed Motoho1ders, a very simple and efficient bulb holders. It's as simple as unscrewing the clip type holders, and replacing it with the Motoho1ders.

 

 

 

Our very own custom designed and engineered projector retrofit brackets were specifically designed to accommodate the Morimoto Mini H1 projectors into your headlights without needing major modifications or the use of epoxy for a much cleaner install without the guessing and aiming.

 

 

 

The projector needs to be spaced out by 1.25" for a perfect fitment, since the OEM projectors are much longer than the Morimoto Mini H1. We use an inch and a 0.25" aluminum spacer as a complete length is not available to us locally. The lock nuts are highly recommended to avoid screws backing out from vibrations while the vehicle is being driven.

 

 

 

We cut the Morimoto Mini Gatling Gun Projector Shrouds about a quarter inch shorter to also improve fitment with the Morimoto Mini H1 projectors.

 

 

 

Here is how the stock height of the Mini Gatling Gun shroud fits over the Mini H1 projectors.

 

 

 

And after we modify it shorter to close the gap between the projector and the shroud.

 

 

 

We also cut the two lower screw stems behind the shroud since we utilized the two lower holes on the projector for the conversion brackets. The screw stems are spaced at a different distance for the top and lower, and you can find out which is which by placing the shroud over the projector and lining up the holes to the stems.

 

 

 

You can attach the shroud to the projector through the two top holes with the screws provided with the projector kit.

 

 

 

After disassembling the headlights, taking off the OEM projectors, and cleaning the casings, we also highly recommend scraping the old glue off and laying down a new layer before resealing. The idea is to replicate all conditions when the headlights were being assembled from the factory when brand new for a higher success rate without water seepage in the future.

 

Just a little bit of grinding on these two parts in the headlight casings will insure perfect fitment and flush sitting for the projector brackets.

 

 

 

You can finally screw the brackets onto the casings lower mounting points. This will be a very tight fit for the screwdriver, but that is the idea and the lower part of the shroud won't be seen at all once the bezel is on.

 

 

 

When doing a quad projector retrofit, alignment of the cutoff light output would be one of the issues you might encounter. Some projectors may sit differently from others, and some casings may be shaped a little bit different from others too.

 

Before reassembling the lights, its always a good idea to test alignment and if functions are working accordingly. To test the alignment, a leveling tool would be your best friend. First, you'd like to identify which side is horizontally leveled.

 

 

 

Usually, the original low beam location would be in perfect alignment. The high beam location is usually tilted to a certain way to feed light to the parts the original low beams couldn't reach. Notice the height difference of the light output cutoffs for both projectors.

 

 

To compensate for the height difference, you can manually push either up or down the projector that is NOT horizontally leveled to match the one with the perfect output, which in this case is the high beam projector.

 

NOTE: The out projector is the original low beam location, and the inner is the highs.

 

 

 

Once you get both projectors on the same height, another thing you'll notice is the rotation of the cutoff might also be out of whack. To correct this, you will need to play a little with the stopping tab for the cutoff shield. Be careful though, as this can break if you keep pushing it back and forth.

 

 

 

To access it without the shield bothering you, you can use another tool, in this case I used an oil seal pick tool to keep it in the open position.

 

 

 

I used a large screwdriver to push the tab upward a bit until the rotation of the cutoff is perfectly matched and horizontally leveled to the other side as the guide. With the large screwdriver, I am able to use the stable shield side as a pivot point to twist the screwdriver and push the tab slightly upwards.

 

 

 

Here is how you're output should look like once everything is horizontally leveled and aligned.

 

 

 

On to the wiring. Please bear in mind, that when doing the quad projector retrofit, we designed it to run all four projectors as low beams. Aesthetically, it looks really good that way. Functionality speaking, it is going to be way brighter even when a dual projector retrofit is already going to provide you a better light output than what the stock can do.

 

However, the stock wiring was designed to light up one projector as low beams and another as high beams on each side. For the quad retrofit, this means you will need to plug the wires for both low beams to one side, and the highs to the other.

 

 

 

 

To address this issue, first, we completely cut off the plugs that plug directly into the stock halogen bulbs and replaced it with blade type wire terminals. The H1 bulbs will come with the same blade type wire terminals, and you'll want to plug both low beam wire terminals to the red wire of the stock wiring. Make sure to use heat shrink or electrical tape to seal the wiring connections.

 

 

 

The high beams of this type of projectors, have no direct connections to the HIDs nor bulbs. It is a magnetic solenoid type, wherein a cutoff shield moves out of the way to let more light pass whenever you flick the high beam switch.

 

The projectors will come with its own high beam wiring that plugs at the lower right side of the projector.

 

 

 

Instead of using the 9005/9006 plugs that come with it, we also modified both high beam wires and fused them to a blade type wire terminal that will plug in to the blue wire of the OEM wiring.

 

 

Make sure to do a final test of the light output and functions before reassembling your headlights. 

 

Before attaching the bezel back after installing all the projectors, make sure to take off the glare shield as it won't be needed since there is now a shroud for each projector.

 

 

 

As you can see, there is nearly zero gap between the projector shroud and the bezel.

 

 

 

As we have mentioned earlier, we highly recommend scraping the old glue off and laying down brand new butyl glue prior to resealing for a higher success rate without water seepage in the future.
 

 

 

Disclaimer: Use at your own risk. If you don't feel comfortable doing a procedure then don't do it. This information is to be used as a guide and is for illustration purposes only. By no means is my site a definitive source for the procedures listed; it is simply how I or the tutorial contributor did things. The tutorial contributor, and I are not responsible in any way for anything that happens as a result of following these guides.

 

Safety First: When working on your car put safety first. Use common sense and be careful. If you're doing electrical work disconnect the battery. If you need to jack up the car use jack stands and wheel blocks. Common sense is the key.

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